Leaving Lucca and travelling north there are two roads flanking the Serchio River heading into the mountains of Tuscany. To the northwest there are the Apuan Alps, where you find the finest marble in the world, in fact it's tempting to think you see snow caps, but you don't, it's solid marble that has caught your eye. To the northeast there are the Appennine mountains, and as you travel up the Serchio River Valley, as have a multitude of invading armies through the ages, high in the mountains, you see the fortresses of many medieval villages.

As you drive through these quiet back roads you realize these isolated mountain villages are not abandoned, as you might think, they are thriving and lively and home to warm hearty foods and rustic traditions, surprisingly welcoming enclaves of activity.

Mountain farming is still a viable way of life. The cooking always takes advantage of local and natural ingredients. Chestnut products and farro, a whole grain used in soups, and porcini mushrooms are staples in the kitchens. Many households still have woodburning bread/pizza ovens and make their own bread on a weekly basis. There are unique varieties of olives and grapes that thrive in these mountains.

Every city, town, or village, has its specialty festivals, sagra, which are usually held in the open air, often with music and dancing. Everyone is welcome, and in fact celebration is a way of life here and posters for festivities beckon from every corner.

Barga and The Garfagnana: Land of Wolves and Outlaws

In the area of Lucca, if you would like to express to someone that someplace is really out in the middle of nowhere, you tell them it's in the Garfagnana, with a backwards wave of your hand over your shoulder.

Set in the beautiful mountainous northwest corner of Tuscany, the medieval city of Barga is situated on a spur overlooking the mid-Serchio River Valley. Although Barga was once known as one of the Jewels of the Garfagnana, never call the "Barghigiani" "Garfagnini."

Barga, in it's heyday, was a stronghold of the Medici's Florence. Against the often fiercely independent republic of Lucca, and the Dukes of Este, or ubiquitous Visconti, it was known as Barga Fiorentina. This is still evident in its culture, language, art and architecture, and the proud Barghigiani continue to think of themselves as a cut above. Barga is nevertheless on the edge of the wilds of the Garfagnana, "land of wolves and outlaws" otherwise known for vast chestnut forests, wild boar, delicious pecorino cheeses and porcini mushrooms.

Barga adds to this a rich cultural life of summer jazz and opera festivals, regular international contemporary art exhibitions, outdoor markets, and a gem like theater founded in 1668, in addition to a city life that is vibrant, diverse and will take any excuse to celebrate. Whether it is the Porcini mushroom season or the chestnut harvest, there is always something going on, to remind you that you are, in fact, in the middle of somewhere.　

Kerry Bell, Barga, Italy

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2003